Installation Tips and Tricks

It is recommended that mouldings are nailed at each stud. If possible, cut mouldings so that joints are located over a stud. To find wall studs, use a magnetic or electronic density sensing stud finder. Wall studs are usually 16 inches apart.

If you have one available, a power nail gun, set at 95 PSI or less, can speed up your project.

Want fewer nail holes? Use panel or construction adhesive (compatible with polystyrene) on the back of the moulding. Use sufficient nails to hold the moulding in place while the adhesive cures.

When splicing moulding, make sure the joints occur at inconspicuous points around the room.

General Tips

Lubricate saw blades with candle wax or furniture polish for easier cutting.

Paint or finish moulding BEFORE you hang it.

After you cut each piece of moulding, move it to the wall where it will hang so you don’t nail the wrong piece to the wrong wall.

Measure twice, cut a test, measure again.

On crown mouldings, it’s helpful to add a bead of caulk along the ceiling edge to hide imperfections.

Crown mouldings can create the illusion of a taller room, but using a moulding that’s too big can overpower a room. The rule of thumb used by interior designers: 1" of moulding for every foot of wall height. For low-slung rooms, you might go to a 1/2" to 3/4" per foot.

When you bring your moulding home, acclimate it to room temperature for 24 hours.

Chair Rail Tips

Since no wall or ceiling is perfectly square, determine the height placement on the wall. Once you have determined this measurement, using a level and a pencil or chalk, trace a line around the room, as a guide for hanging.

Chair rail is typically installed 33" to 36" high. Measure to where the backs of your chair will hit the wall.

To cut chair rail, place it in the miter box as you would on the wall, with the flat side against the back of the miter box. Then cut using the appropriate angled slot for an inside or outside corner.